On June 2, 2018, Tammy and I headed to Bryson City, NC to continue our exploration of The Great Smokey Mountains National Park. Deciding before hand to do a short hike we got a later start. We ran into traffic on I40 and got off the interstate and headed towards North Carolina via 421 over Newfound Gap.

Traffic into the tourist haven of Gatlinburg was relatively light. We made our way through town, stopped at Sugarlands Visitor Center for a couple of items then made our way up towards the State Line at Newfound Gap.

It was a beautiful day, traffic was light for the most visited National Park in America, and we made our way at speed. Clouds and sunlight made a patchwork vision of the landscape as we drove along. The forecast held a chance of rain. Veterans of rain soaked trails, we had packed rain gear in our day packs.

Taking 421 into Cherokee and then heading to Bryson City delayed our arrival at the trail head by more than an hour. Deep Creek is a tubing paradise. As we rolled towards the Deep Creek entrance we passed several tubing enterprises enticing visitors with friendly girls waving and smiling as they held up giant colored tubes.

At the trail head there was no parking and we backtracked to the picnic area to find suitable parking. The Deep Creek Trail Head is within a very short walking distance from the picnic area, just follow the sidewalk at the upper end of the picnic area back to the trail head.

We took the Juney Whank Loop up past Juney Whank Falls. The Falls were gorgeous as the heavy rains of the past few days had water levels high. We crossed the board walk in front of the Falls and continued the short loop to hook up to Deep Creek Trail.

Tubers in numbers were floating the length of Deep Creek. People of all ages, shapes and skills were making their way along. It was fun to watch as we hiked past Tom Branch Falls towards Indian Creek Trail. Retracing my steps from earlier excursions,  I looked for differences in the trail and enjoyed how the change of season changed the trail. It was drier despite the rain, the flora has taken on its beginning of summer look, spring’s new buds and wildflowers giving way to mature grasses, bushes and a different set of blooms. The canopy above now full, views off into the distance are shrouded and the shade turns the trail into a green verdant tunnel.

We turned up Indian Creek Trail and watched as a group of adventurous tubers ignored the sign stating ‘No Tubing Beyond This Point’ and headed up to the top of Indian Creek Falls. One teen waded out above the Falls and the adult of the group, an overweight gentleman huffing and puffing from climbing the slight incline, asked the young man if he wanted a bigger tube or if he was Ok with the one he had. So much for adult supervision. Debating on whether to say anything or not we stood glued to the spot like train wreck gawkers. Rational warnings sure to be ignored hovering on lips in an Oh you’ve got to be kidding me expression, we watched the youngster plunge over the Falls and bob safely away from the turbulent underflow. Is it any wonder at all that drowning is the main cause of fatalities in this Great Park?

We continued up Indian Creek Trail to where it intersected The Loop trail and made the left that led up hill towards Sunkota Ridge Trail. As we did, Thunder sounded in the distance. Joking about the rain coming when we were furtherest from the Jeep, we climbed. Sure enough the rains came. We put on our rain gear and got envious looks from hikers passing us going opposite direction from us.

The rains did not last long. It cooled us off, relieving the humidity a bit. We chatted as we made our way to the Deep Creek Trail. The Loop Trail is 1.2 miles in length. Together with Indian Creek, Deep Creek and Juney Whank Loop it makes up part of a nice little loop hike of 5+/- miles. The Three waterfalls are a highlight of this hike. The climb from Indian Creek to the intersection with Sunkota Ridge is about 1/2 mile and 400 ft elevation gain. It makes for a steady climb. We descended to Deep Creek Trail and headed back towards the picnic area.

We passed a lady out backpacking with a dog who had his own pack. The dog was very well behaved and followed her verbal directions without hesitation. We talked with her and wished her well. I wondered how this pup was not bound by the no dogs in the back country rules posted on every trail and in every guidebook? I didn’t ask. It was apparently a rules are only guidelines kind of day in Deep Creek as we passed another couple hiking with a leashed dog a little later.

All in all it was a nice little hike. There is much more yet to explore in the beautiful Deep Creek area. The Tubers were making a wonderful case for spending the day in the Creek instead of beside it too.

On Memorial Day, Monday May, 28, my friend Tammy and I rolled out to Shady Valley, Tennessee, to park on Highway 421, also known to motorcyclist enthusiasts as The Snake. Where the Appalachian Trail crosses 421 above Holston Lake, there is a nice large graveled parking area and next to where the trail descends out of the woods there is a picnic table.

We parked my Jeep there and took her Suburu back to the very nice graveled parking area where the AT crosses Highway 91. Our goal, to hike the 6.5 mile section of the AT from Cross Mountain on 91 to Low Gap on 421.

In the Tennessee-North Carolina Section of the Appalachian Trail Guide the trail description in general let us know we would be hiking Ridge lines over a short section of trail linking the higher ridges of the Iron Mountains and Holston Mountain.

We started northbound on Cross Mountain where a half mile of trail has been made wheel chair accessible through a hay field. On Saturday our hiking adventure started out in the rain. Today, the world was cloudy with the promise of rain later. Rain gear packed in our day packs we hiked through the well maintained fields following the worn track from white blazed fence post to white blazed fence post. We passed through a couple of gates and then we climbed over the fences using the convienent set up in place. There were rocks marked with the white blaze in the last open field where some cows were pastured before we entered the forest.  We dodged cow piles and the gentle beasts watched us pass without interest.

We entered the forest and marched into the verdant growth. The world was damp and vibrant green. The trail was well marked and not as muddy as I feared it would be. This was my second adventure on this particular slice of the AT. Back in April of 2014 my daughter in law Danielle and a few other friends made a day out of an in and out hike the length of this section. There were 5 of us and 2 canine companions. At that time it was the longest hike I had done at 13 miles.

I remember the views from April, 2014, now obscured by the canopy. We could see South Holston Lake in the distance on that long ago day in April and the closer we got to 421 our hike was serenaded by the constant roar of Motorcycle engines as riders tested themselves along the Snake. That April day was a lovely, sunny spring day. Today, not so much.

We entered the damp woods under a heavy cloud cover knowing the forecast called for rain as the day progressed. The heavy growth of undergrowth and the spreading leaves of the deciduous trees was the extent of our views on this one way trek. As we began a more earnest ascent we came to a section of trail that has been rerouted since the last time I was here. We followed the neatly laid out path noting the old length of trail being slowly re-absorbed into the landscape as fauna overtook the footpath.

The rains finally started as we rounded a bend and looked down on the Double Springs Shelter, which was occupied by a couple of through hikers taking a break and filtering water. We stopped and joined them in the Shelter listening to the gentle patter of rain on the roof as we snacked. The lady, who looked very tired and discouraged with the conditions, told me in a soft, melancholy tone that they had actually seen the sun yesterday morning. I tried to imagine slogging through the last couple of weeks of constant rain, threat of rain, thunderstorms, and just general dampness. I was heading to the Jeep then home, they were heading towards Damascus a good 17 miles further on the trail. I tried to relate but I lacked the experience really. Someday…when the onerous duties of life become less overbearing I will hit the trails for extended adventures. I am lucky I have a regular smorgasbord of hiking opportunities that lend themselves to day hikes and overnight stays within mere hours driving in any direction I choose to go.

The rain began in earnest as we headed away from the Shelter. We came quickly to the Holston Mountain Trailhead then began our exit trek to 421. There were no views of the lake in the distance and there were no sounds of Motorcycles on the Snake on this rainy Memorial Day. We slogged along a green tunnel towards the road the rain falling steadily. I took my friend Tammy’s advice and wore looser fitting rain gear and it worked like a dream.

We were passed by more through hikers as we hiked along. The couple from the Shelter passed us towards the end of our hike. We made our way to the Jeep feeling a sense of accomplishment with the day. It felt great to be back on the AT after a couple of years of focusing on the Smokies. So many trails, so little time!

On a rainy Saturday morning, Tammy, Rhonda and I headed out for an adventure. This hike is the first one I have set out on in the rain. I have been caught out on the trail and the rain roll in, but to deliberately leave the dry comfort of home in a steady rain…well it was a first. I have decided that rain should be no deterrent. It rains a lot after all. Looking at the weather bug app, I see a chance for rain every day. If rain is to determine my plans, my plans would be to lay in bed and read. This would lead to a bad outcome after a while. I need to move. Hiking provides an extremely important physical outlet.

Backbone Falls Trail is a short loop hike that climbs up above Backbone Falls and crosses over the top of the Falls then heads back down. There are rock steps and unprotected ledges. The Falls are not huge, but they are lovely, falling 40 ft to a pool in the base of a small gorge. Well worth the short walk.  It is one of two trails accessed from this parking area. One crosses the road to see the Falls.

Backbone Rock trail head is at the back of the parking area marked with a trail sign beside a huge set of steps. We started up the awesome rock stair steps toward the top of Backbone Rock. Backbone Rock itself is a rocky spur off Holston Mountain in Shady Valley, Tennessee in the Cherokee National Forest. A tunnel was cut through the rock by a railroad company. It is a popular rappelling and rock climbing spot. Today, in the rain, we had the parking lot to ourselves.

At the top of the stairs we turned left and headed towards the AT. There is a spur trail that takes one to the top of the rock. I passed on that. I am not a fan of heights. We made our way along the trail, which is well marked with blue blazes. The trail is well maintained, but there were places where it was overgrown and I lifted my arms and passed through weedy patches, the wet weeds slapping my legs and drenching my wet pants. The pants I chose did their job, the material proving it’s worth in the inclement conditions. My jacket soaked through and proved it’s unworthiness as true rain gear for lengthy exposure.

The rain and mist made the forest seem ethereal. This sight is not one a body enjoys from the couch at home. The trail did seem to go on forever. Sometimes, this happens. You decide you’ve probably walked far enough to be further along than you are. As you turn a corner, round a bend, come out of the undergrowth you expect to see the intersection or some other landmark. It doesn’t happen, you keep walking filled with expectation and you keep getting disappointed as the trail stretches on and on.

I caught up to Rhonda and Tammy at a campsite where they were taking a short break. We talked about how far we thought we had come along and decided we just had to be near the intersection. To our delight we were practically on top of it.

The AT has a powerful draw for me, the length of it and popularity, intrigue me. The white blaze that marks its length promises all kinds of adventure my imagination picks up and runs away with. The trail itself is very well maintained. We had 4.8 miles to get us back to Damascus, Virginia. Rhonda took off like she had been shot out of a gun, I looked up and she was gone, Tammy followed at a good pace and I brought up the rear of our little trio. I reminded myself they couldn’t leave me, I had the keys. I caught up to Tammy and passed her while she took a short break to snack. I broke out my Baby Ruth and munched it as I walked. It didn’t take Tammy long to catch and pass me. Down Hill is something I pace myself at for the sake of my joints.

At the border we met a couple of through hikers and chatted with them. Tammy shared a king sized Snickers. They gleefully tore into and shared the candy bar.

I hiked this section of the trail solo in March of 2016.

The difference in the trail was significant. Last time it was wide open spaces compared to the verdant tunnel we walked. The vegatitation was in full growth mode. The sunshine, rain, sunshine cycle fueling the forest to life.

The rain that had been falling stopped. The sun came out and we hiked. We passed a couple set up under a canopy offering trail magic of a certain herbal variety we politely refused. Another through hiker passed us at trail speed. Like slow moving traffic we moved aside.

The trail comes out of the forest into people’s yards. Just like that civilization. The trail goes a little ways straight then bears a left towards downtown Damascus, Virginia. We caught up to Rhonda in the park.

It was a great little hike. Glad to be on the trail with such good friends. Looking forward to our next hike!

On May 12, my beautiful daughter in law and I headed towards Tremont in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park for a 14.9 mile loop hike. Danielle mapped out the loop and laid out the trip plan. I was most agreeable with whatever she chose. Turns out this was a challenging little loop.

We got to the parking area at 10:30ish. The parking area was crowded and frankly, the way the people parked limited options for the folks coming in later as we did. There were several cars parked in such a way as to compromise parking in general. Cars were parked just far enough apart that another car could not fit between effectively taking up 3 potential spaces with 2 vehicles. I circled the area then pulled the Jeep in behind another 4×4 in a less than optimum position, but it worked. We unloaded and gathered back packs and supplies.

It was a lovely day, it had gone straight from the mild temperatures of spring into summer, hello heat and humidity! I changed my cap for a headband to keep my unruly locks out of my face. I liked the headband. It is a keeper.

Middle Prong Trail is a well graded gentle incline along the river. One walks accompanied by the sound of flowing water. It is a fairly popular trail and we passed family groups of all ages and sizes enjoying nature in their shorts and flip flops. I felt all business like with the Lowa boots, the backpack and my beloved iron wood walking stick.

There are Cascades along the river offering wonderful photo ops. We made good time going up the 2.3 miles to the trail intersection with Panther Creek.

We took the left turn off Middle Prong and considered the first of at least 8 water crossings detailed for Panther Creek. The warnings about the difficulty of the initial crossing in the Little Brown Book had Danielle and eyeing the river warily. We scanned our options then pulled out the water shoes and changed from our boots. Then we waded gingerly across the horse ford. The current was swift but not so fast to compromise footing if careful. I plotted a course that took me on the upside of several larger rocks. I used my walking stick as a third point of contact as I made my way. The rocks braced my legs so if I slipped on the slick rocks underfoot I wouldn’t go far. The water was over knee high in places as I picked my way carefully along. Cold and invigorating, the water crossing set us on our way up Panther Creek. Panther Creek climbed towards Jakes Gap. We left our water shoes on for the multiple crossings ahead. It was cool close to the water, but we heated up as we climbed the 1500 ft elevation gain in 2.3 miles.

Sitting on a fallen log for one of our many rest stops we watched a young couple come down the trail. They looked like they had just finished a photo shoot for backpackers magazine, clean and well groomed with all the equipment and accoutrements for a weekend stay in the backcountry. We spoke to find out that they had just spent 2 nights at 2 different back country sites. I glanced over at my red faced sweaty disheveled daughter in law and down at my own battered gear and then back at the clear eyed smiling couple and felt awestruck. We had only been in the woods for two hours and they had been in for at least two days…😮. How?

We shrugged our backpacks back on and continued to climb, the higher we got the thinner the tree cover became. As we left the creek behind we climbed in direct sunlight for stretches of trail. Danielle had dipped her bandana and wetted her hair and face but she was starting to wear out quickly. We stopped again for a rest and listened as another group of hikers headed our way from above. The three gentlemen were having a grand time and they stopped to chat. They asked where we were headed and we said up and they looked at us with sympathy and murmured their condolences before they went on their merry way. That seemed to suck the remaining gumption right out of Danielle’s flagging energy well. She glumly gathered up and resumed the hot trudge towards the trail’s end at Jake’s Gap. We walked a little ways and she finally said she thought she had had enough. She was ready to cash it in and just go back the way we had come. She looked overheated and done in. I gave her one of my frozen gatorades and she drank on it. Knowing we had to be close to the end of the trail I told her to just take it easy and I would round the next little Ridge and see how close we were.

We were practically there. I met two other hikers at the intersection. They had done the loop going in the opposite direction. I chatted and as we talked Danielle trudged up. The Gatorade had given her a boost. The ladies told us that the little section of Mirey Ridge ahead of us was not bad at all a little more up and then it was all down hill.

Dogged and determined Danielle got a second wind seeing the signs at the intersection and decided down hill on Lynn Camp or down on Panther Creek we would finish the loop rather than backtrack. With the encouragement of fellow hikers ringing in our ears we started up Mirey Ridge towards Lynn Camp Prong Trail. 700 more ft of elevation gain and much complaining and muttered imprecations later we topped out then began our descent. I played where is Danielle as she bolted off down the mountain we had so laboriously climbed.

Mirey Ridge is 5 miles long, we did 2.5 miles to the intersection with Lynn Camp Prong. Danielle finished my Gatorade and proclaimed Panther Creek Trail as one and done. She came, she saw, she climbed, she survived…and Panther Creek had seen the last of her. We turned right onto Lynn Camp Prong Trail.

It was like the starter’s gun had rung, Danielle disappeared around the bend ahead of me as I continued to follow. Going down hill takes a toll on my knees and my feet. My feet were starting to hurt and I considered putting my boots back on but I would have had to stop and sit down and then get back up. That doesn’t sound like much but trust me when I say it was enough that I chose to walk. We planned a stop at campsite 28. I assured my protesting feet I would change shoes then.

There are points on every long hike where one hits a zone that can best be described as will power. Will power keeps your body moving towards the goal, as your mind zones out. No sense in concentrating on discomfort or even pain. These are inevitable when pushing your body beyond its comfort zone. The challenge is powering through and beyond the discomfort to reach the goal. Once you are so far in the only way out is to keep going. The easy way is not to go at all.

We stopped at the campsite and changed shoes. This made a world of difference to my aching feet. Wish I hadn’t been such a pansy and changed earlier. The last mile 1/2 of Lynn Camp Prong was nicely graded and easy walking.

We hit Middle Prong to finish out our loop hike. We followed a side trail to some really nice falls then walked the 4.1 miles towards the waiting Jeep. Seemed like a long way left to go. We went down some nice switch backs then leveled out on the wide graded gentle decline that lead us towards the trail head. Exhausted, but feeling good for accomplishing such a physically challenging day we headed out of the mountains towards home!

On Thursday July 7, 2016, I got up early and rolled out of my little nest with the intention to hike to Grinnel Glacier in the Many Glacier area of Glacier National Park. After all what is a trip to Glacier National Park without an up close and personal visit to one of the park’s namesakes.

I rode with Craig as we left Mom, Abby and Amber at the campsite. They had their own big plans for the day. We had to cross Going to the Sun Road to get from Apgar Villiage to the Eastern entrance of the park. The harrowing drive was much less so with low traffic and a good dose of Dramamine. The fog obscured the precipitous drop offs and Craig’s nimble CRV took the curves with ease as we headed over the pass towards our destination.

We stopped and fueled up on a generous breakfast then stopped for gas and a canister of Bear Spray. The extreme response to the Grizzly on the Hidden Lake Hike convinced me that the Bear Spray was a worthy investment. At the entrance to Many Glacier we discovered that the trail to Grinnel was still closed due to hazardous conditions on the melting snow field. Disappointed we looked at our map and went to plan B. We chose to hike to Ice Berg Lake.

The hike was 9.8 miles round trip. A very popular destination, the trail head was congested with vehicles and we had to park quite a ways from the trail head.

As we started up the trail we ran into a ranger who went over Bear safety with us. We had a great conversation as we told him we had been in the group at Hidden Lake the day before. He told us the steepest part of the trail was at the beginning. Once past it the remainder of the trail proved to be a gentle incline.

The abundance and variety of wildflowers in all colors, shapes, and sizes was delightful eye candy.

I took lots of pictures, but pictures do not really do justice to the powerful vistas which make one feel rather small and insignificant. The grandeur of the peaks in the distance and the waterfalls cascading towards the valleys below, the forest as we entered it, how can it possibly be captured in mere words or still life photographs?

We passed Ptarmigan Falls and wound around the trail. It was as heavily travelled as the parking lot indicated it would be. We actually met a couple from our home state of Tennessee and chatted with them about their adventures staying at all the state parks in Tennessee. It sounded so neat it made me want to check out some of them. I am not a fast paced hiker so our new friends soon outpaced us.

Ice Berg Lake sits in a horseshoe shaped bowl with mountains reaching for the sky cradling this little azure jewel, shading it from direct sunlight, snow glinting around the peaks like a crystal crown. As a result of limited exposure to the sun the ice rarely  completely melts leaving the surface dotted with little icebergs.

There was a crowd at the lake, even some adventurous souls swimming in the ice cold water, if you call running into the water, dunking down then racing back to the relative warmth of the shore swimming. A gentleman had binoculars and let us look through them to spy out Mountain Goats galavanting on the precipices above the lake. It is a wonder of nature how these beasts romp on the precarious heights. The world is full of magic and wonders and I drank them in to my hearts content.

The beautiful color of the water is caused by sediments from the glacier melt. I never imagined seeing something as picturesque as the azure water dotted with cute little ice bergs.

On the return trip I saw a few things I didn’t catch on the way up. I was searching the peaks on the ascent. Descending, one looks down the magnificent valley, the evergreens reaching for the sky, spread out on the walls of the valley.

The hike took us a little over 5 hours. It was not a difficult hike and the payoff was pure magic. The trail is well defined and travelled. There are potties at the lake for those like myself who can’t go 5 hours without going, especially if hydrating as recommended. I would heartily recommend this hike to anyone venturing to the Many Glacier area of this magnificent park. It has a dose of everything, a challenging little climb to get you started, nice defined trail through wildflowers and forest then above a landscape of awesome, breathtaking vistas, ending with the jewel that is Ice Berg Lake.

 

On Saturday, April 28, 2018, I headed back to the Smokies to get some miles in on the trails and challenge myself with a strenuous hike. This particular loop fit the bill. At 16.3 Trail Miles the hike had much to offer.

I mapped out the loop, going up Mingus Creek Trail to Newton Bald, making a left onto to Newton Bald past campsite 52 to Thomas Divide. I would get 3.1 miles on Thomas Divide to the intersection with Deeplow Gap. I would hit Deeplow Gap,  go by Little Creek Falls, and hook back up to Mingus Creek and make my way back to the Jeep in the Mingus Mill Parking area.

This was my third traverse of Mingus Creek Trail. I did an in and out up Mingus to Newton Bald then back out. I did it again when I got Mom to drop me off at Thomas Divide, I hiked out to the intersection with Newton Bald and made my way back to the Parking area at Mingus Mill down Mingus Creek Trail.

Mingus Creek Trail is a challenge. The beginning of the trail is pleasantly graded as it passes behind the historic Mill. Graveled and graded it lulls you into thinking it is going to be a walk in the park. About a mile in, you come to a y in the trail, a graveyard lies on the graded path, heaven beacons on the left as you hit the trail proper.

The climb begins and it does not end until the trail does. The first part of the trail follows the creek and is rocky and today it was wet. Wet weather streams flowed across the trail, down the trail, crossing the rocks making for precarious footing as you climb. Some places you could avoid the water rock hopping or going to one side or the other. Some places you just had to carefully splash away until past the water hazard. Wild flowers were numerous and dotted the landscape with purple, yellow and white. I took numerous photos of the different flowers.

Leaving the waterway, one begins to climb into a forest that lags behind the lower elevation. Going up a series of switch backs to the intersection with Deeplow Gap, the lush greens and colors are left behind. The world, dominated now by tall bare tree trunks and fallen leaves, is dull brown highlighted by a little green and a brave little wild flower here and there.

I got a bit of a late start and I tried to keep up a quicker pace, but this trail was not the best one to push myself early on. The climb is arduous and fairly relentless. It was in the mid 60’s with a nice chilly breeze that blew harder the higher I went. I was sweating so much my t shirt was soaked and my hair was dripping. I took off my cap to cool my burning brow. I took a break at the trail intersection with Deeplow Gap knowing this was where I would hook back up with Mingus Creek later. I had come 2.8 miles and my legs were already wondering why I was doing this to them. I had 2.9 miles left. I decided to slow my pace a little and save some for later. Yeah, I still had 14 miles to go and I was already feeling the burn.

The upward trajectory of the trail leveled out a little and walking was easier for a ways, then the trail grew steeper. The signs at the trail intersections in the Park become land marks I rejoice to see. When they come into sight I can’t help but celebrate. It seems like you will never get there then there it is! The sign!

I topped out on Newton Bald and made the left towards Thomas Divide. The wind blew hard there on the Bald, and it had a definite chill! The sweat I had worked so hard for dried and I got cold. Walking kept me from having to pull out the fleece. It was 0.7 mile to Thomas Divide. Newton Bald and the first leg of Thomas Divide is ridge walking and looking off to either side one sees a vista of rolling mountains as far as the eye can see.

Thomas Divide has not seen the tender ministrations of Trail maintenance crews lately. There were several downed trees that one had to navigate around. None were particularly difficult obstacles but then I’m not a horse. I saw evidence that the trail had recently seen horse traffic. Hoof prints and poop dotted the trail. I actually caught up to the four equestrians at a narrow part of the trail. Apparently, one of the horses had had a problem negotiating a downed tree and ended up taking his rider on an exciting plunging ride down the steep embankment. The riders had stripped the horse of gear and were working as a team to get it back on trail with its companions. I spoke to them and negotiated my way through the close cluster of horse flesh blocking the narrow trail. Three of the four were retrieving the saddle and gear from the holler. I petted and spoke to the horses as I weaved through and by them.

Thomas Divide descended towards Deeplow Gap and I descended along its way. My feet were beginning to hurt. I took a break at the intersection with Deeplow Gap and the four horsemen caught up to me none the worse for wear. We spoke again and wished each other well. They went right down Deeplow Gap towards Deep Creek and I turned left towards Mingus Creek. Deeplow went down and I entered that lush green springtime landscape once again. Little Creek Falls was beautiful. Water cascading down the rock face in torrents. I was wearing down too and I still had a ways to go including a decent climb from Deeplow Gap back to Mingus Creek. I passed the intersection with Cooper Road Trail then hit a section of trail straight out of a video game complete with obstacles, unsafe log bridges, muddy pits of bog like terrain, and water hazards flowing straight down the trail. It promised to be a challenge to negotiate the different obstacles. I drained an energy drink and took a deep breath. Bring it on! Climb over the fallen tree, balance carefully across the log bridge that is more rotten than whole, try to get through the bog without getting sucked in and stuck, traipse up the stream flowing down the middle of the rocky trail, bog hop, over the fallen log, around the fallen tree, and do it all again. It took my mind off how tired I was.

The climb started in earnest as I turned away from the waterway. I made it by telling myself it would all be downhill once I hit Mingus Creek again. Up I went looking to my right at the landscape rolling away, looking ahead hoping to see the sign. When I did, I felt exuberant.

I made the last 2+ Miles feeling a sense of accomplishment. According to my Fit Bit watch I got over 45000 steps and nearly 5000 ft elevation gain. No wonder my legs were sore!

After nearly 2 weeks of emotional ups and downs I needed to push my body physically to the limit to purge the echoes of angst from my system. If I didn’t sweat out all those stress hormones I missed a good shot at it! I hit reset on the trail and now I am ready to take on the world again. Next Saturday is only 6 days away!

We left Makoshika State Park in Glendive, Montana and drove through Big Sky Country across the great empty spaces of Montana towards the Rocky Mountains and Glacier National Park. We arrived at Glacier Bible Camp in Hungry Horse, Montana late in the day. We set up camp and took showers, visited our new friends then rested.

On Wednesday, July 6, we headed to the Western entrance of Glacier National Park. We stopped at the visitor center, gathered maps and information then headed to view Lake McDonald.

Excited, we headed up Going to the Sun Road, a modern marvel. I drove…it was a real nail biter. The two lanes winding up through the mountains seem awfully narrow at times with sheer drop offs on one side with a short retaining wall between your tires and eternity, and steep cliff walls on the other. Rock doesn’t give. I didn’t see any of the stunning views my passengers were exclaiming over, pointing at and enjoying except out of the corner of my eye. I saw asphalt, the short retaining wall, other vehicles I was sure were going to trade paint with me and the sheer cliff walls. I was a bundle of nerves by the time we got to the visitor center at Logan’s Pass.

Needing to burn off the adrenaline build from driving this extraordinary road, I suggested we do the 1.5 mile hike up to Hidden Lake. It was 48 degrees on the 6th of July! There was snow on the ground. This Southern girl was delighted to stand on a snow field in the middle of summer. Sometimes, it is the little things. Craig, Amber and I started up the trail. About 1/2 way up to the overlook for Hidden Lake we spotted a Grizzly Bear in the distance. It was a mother bear with a growing cub. I got a picture of the mother bear against the snow field but the cub was too quick as it chased its mom. The picture was fuzzy but, hey, it was a picture!

Amber decided to turn back and Craig and I continued on towards Hidden Lake. We slipped and slid across the snow field along with several other determined hikers. The fog got thicker and it started to sleet, little icy pellets stinging as we walked. As we hiked up and the visibility deteriorated we heard a rifle shot from somewhere behind us.

At the top of the trail, on the overlook it was so foggy that Hidden Lake remained hidden. I took a picture of the panel describing Hidden Lake and a picture of the enshrouding fog. As we started back down the trail we were stopped by Ranger Eric and sent back up to the board walk where we were held for over 1/2 an hour.

Rangers had spotted the Grizzly too close to the trail and hikers. A warning shot had been fired sending her away but visibility had gotten so bad no one knew for sure where she had gone. Afraid she might have curled back around towards the trail and all us unwary hikers rangers closed the trail and made arrangements to lead us off the mountain safely. Mom, Abby, and Amber waited at the visitor center while we waited at the top of the trail. We chatted with fellow hikers and passed the time until the Rangers led us down as a group. There were about 35 of us in a group that Ranger Eric led down, other Rangers were spotters keeping an eye out for the Grizzly.

Ranger Eric let us go out onto the snow pack and get photos of the bear’s Paw prints. What a wonderful adventure to start out our exploration of one of the Crown Jewels of the National Park System!

We finished the drive down Going to the Sun Road and checked out St. Mary’s Lake then headed to the Two Medicine section of the park to locate trail heads for future adventures.

 

 

On Saturday, April 14, 2018, my beautiful daughter in law, Danielle, and I headed to Bryson City and the Deep Creek area of The Great Smokey Mountains National Park. The drive over 40 to Maggie Valley, then over the Blue Ridge Parkway into GSMNP, then back to Cherokee, NC, and finally Bryson City took us about 2 hours and 45 minutes from home. It was a beautiful day, warm with a slight breeze.

We started our adventure with a .3 mile side trip from the parking lot to Juney Whank Falls, one of 3 popular waterfalls we would see on our hike. Our planned route would take us up Deep Creek Trail to the juncture with Indian Creek Trail. We would hike Indian Creek to the juncture with Deeplow Gap, go a short distance on Deeplow Gap to the juncture with Indian Creek Motor Trail. We would climb Indian Creek Motor Trail then descend back to Stone Pile Gap Trail on Thomas Divide traverse Stone Pile Gap to Indian Creek then retrace our steps to the Parking lot. Altogether the round trip promised to garner us 10+ miles of togetherness in the most wonderful setting imaginable.

We left our gear in the Jeep for the quick jaunt up to see Juney Whank Falls, a pretty cascade with a nice boardwalk and bench where one can sit and enjoy the sight and sounds of the cascading water along with the coolness of the water spray. Pictures and memories made we retraced our path to the Jeep, gathered snacks and supplies and headed up Deep Creek Trail. We met a very nice couple and their tiny fur baby Elliot, a long haired,  elderly chihuahua in a back pack.

We stopped for picture ops at Tom Branch Falls. There are several benches with excellent views of the waterfalls. Many folks take advantage of the seating to enjoy the beauty and relax after the short walk to the attraction. We pressed on the the juncture with Indian Creek Trail.

Making a right we walked uphill a short distance to view Indian Creek Falls the third waterfall on the agenda. The upgrades to the access path to the viewing area made getting down to look up at the stunning waterfall much easier than it had been when I brought my Mon over to check out the Waterfalls a couple years ago.

We proceeded on up Indian Creek Trail, a nice, wide easy trail. It was like walking along an old country lane. It is an old thoroughfare through a community of homesteads following the creek along its length. We crossed the creek a couple times on nice bridges and enjoyed the sounds of the flowing water. It was an easy pleasant stroll.

Then we came to the intersection with Deeplow Gap and the terrain changed. We turned right and headed up. The trail narrowed and became rugged, with rocks that made one have to watch where the foot fell with each step. We only had 0.4 miles on Deeplow Gap before we came to Indian Creek Motor Trail. We stood at the intersection and watched a fellow hiker descend toward us. We asked him if we were on the right trail and he grinned and said we had a climb ahead of us. He did not lie.

Indian Creek Motor Trail was 1.8 miles of steady elevation gain. We climbed over 900 ft in a steady incline winding our way around on a wide path that had initially been developed with the intent of being a Motor Trail. That fell through and only hikers and horse back riders and mountain bikers are allowed on the trail. The woods are slowly transitioning through the seasonal change. Signs of spring are popping up all over in the forms of wild flowers, greening vegetation and bird song. Red faced and breathing hard, we maintained a steady pace. I could tell this really needed to be my last hike in my winter hiking pants. A steady stream of sweat ran down my back and dampened my clothing. The woods covered in layers of fallen leaves looked all winter like, the warm air, cool breeze and birds singing felt and sounded all spring like.

At the juncture of Indian Creek Motor Trail and Thomas Divide we took a sit down, snack break. We had finished our climb and looked forward to descending Thomas Divide and Stone Pile Gap. As we gathered up our packs to leave, Danielle grabbed my beloved Iron Wood walking stick and handed it to me with a wide smile. “I’ve read your blog, “ she declared, “I’m not backtracking!”

This section of Thomas Divide was wide and well maintained, the echoes of the old Motor loop in its dimensions. We descended at a nice easy clip to Stone Pile Gap Trail where we made a right and stepped off the ‘road’ onto a path. We descended down to follow a creek bed along to the trails end at Indian Creek.

We retraced our steps back down by the Indian Creek Falls and out Deep Creek Trail by Tom Branch Falls to the vehicle. Sore feet and knees from the descentk, but extremely happy with the day’s adventure!

Jackie Black, my friend, left me today. He liked to roam the woods and the Farm. He liked to chase small animals and bark at large ones. He was a quiet fellow most of the time. He would come sit next to me when he wanted to be petted. Jackie roamed a little too far away from the house and he won’t be coming back.

Jackie had a quiet presence. One night when the temperatures were rising from a week long stint below 0 and the cold wind was blowing he hopped off the bed and went into the other end of the house. He came back to stand beside the bed then he pattered away only to come back and look at me, the weight of his somber gaze heavy in the wee hours of the morning. After 3 rounds of this I begrudgingly got out of bed and followed him to discover a flood as water poured out from under the bathroom sink. Job done he climbed back into bed and slept while I raced outside to the well to shut the water off then did what I could to mop up the flood.

Jackie liked to greet me when I got home, he would race up the hill as I drove in and would come make sure it was me. He wasn’t there this evening. The other guys were waiting for me, but he was conspicuously absent. I called to him. “Jackie, you come home right now!” Usually, he would bark and head in. Not tonight.

Some time today he roamed too far. He made it to the 4-lane and by the time I found him he was gone. I have no idea what made him wander that far from the house. His journey has taken him far far away now.

I will miss you Jackie! There is an empty space at the foot of the bed.

 

The vacation that began with a 2 night stay in Illinois continued with a cross country drive from Rock Cut State Park to the largest state park in Montana, Makoshika State Park. The projected drive time on Hwy 2 was 14 hours. I knew better than that, I knew who was driving.

We packed up our gear at 5:30 Central time and we’re on the road by 6:00 AM. “It’s a Highway Song, you sing it on and on, on and on!” Blackfoot reference but oh so true. That was our day and into the night. We rolled from Illinois into Wisconsin to drive across 3 states into Montana. From Wisconsin we rolled into Minnesota by passing Minneapolis heading into North Dakota.

In North Dakota we ran into a terrible thunder storm with lightning, hail, dark clouds and heavy rains. We watched the storm on the horizon as we drove towards it, the inevitability of meeting it weighing heavy on the mind. Fatigued from hours behind the wheel, the storm was like a test of resolve. The lightening big, bold and blinding as it streaked from sky towards the rolling plains. We drove through it and were rewarded by a magnificent rainbow. Night fell and we drove into a changing landscape that was indistinguishable in the darkness.

We arrived at Makoshika State Park in Glendive Montana after 11:00 PM Mountain time. It was dark and quiet at the Campground, we rolled in and tried to set up our tents as quietly as possible. The sky looked immense overhead. We were heading into big sky country and I felt the name apt.

Exhausted we tried to shortcut setup and ended up unfolding Mom’s tent and setting it without staking it, using the excuse of not disturbing others to forgo the exercise. The wind blew and the sides of mom’s tent folded in on her. She was not a happy camper. To make matters worse we set her on top of the largest anthill in the whole park. Abashed and apologetic, we set her to rights after the sun rose.

Makoshika is famous for its dinosaur trail, fossils and its museum. It is set in the Montana Badlands. It is an incredible sight to wake up surrounded by rocky outcrops and looking up into such an alien landscape. Coming from the verdant wet forest lands of Appalachia, the desert plains and badlands are fascinating. The very feel of the air is different.

With one full day here to explore we got right to it by heading to the visitor center and checking out the museum with its fossil collection and Triceratops skull. In the heat of the day we headed deeper into the park and drove up into the upper Park checking out the sights and marking trails of interest. The hikes were short intense dips into the canyons and gorges that run through the park.

We did Cap Rock Trail a 1/2 mile loop with rock formations that tickled the eye and baffled the mind. Seeing the Cap Rocks, big boulders sitting atop spindles, created over 1000’s of years through erosion, is a treat leaving one awed by the sheer artistry of Mother Nature. From this sweet little loop we headed up to the Kinney Coulee Trail. It was 1 mile long. The distance didn’t sound too bad and the allure of the landscape drew us out and down. It was hot, and dry and the scramble down and rock hopping and clambering around was strenuous. There was a picnic table near the half way point and we stopped to rest.

It was shady and a welcome respite from the sun. I drank my remaining water then wondered at the wisdom of that. We started back towards the trail head, the sun, the rocky desert like terrain, the climb, it all made for a most challenging 1/2 mile. By the time we got back to the vehicle, my mouth was dry and I felt like I had been eating chalk. Going in the heat of the day added to the difficulty of the hikes, but we only had the day to see what we could.

We went into Glendive for a late lunch and supplies. When we got back to camp we decided to do the Diane Gabriel Trail and check out the Hadrosaur fossil in situ.  The 1.9 mile hike was easier due to the cooler temperatures. We hiked through some grassy land to the juncture with the side path to the fossil site then up to an overlook where we surveyed the Campground and looked off into the distance.

Makoshika is a fun park with lots to offer for exploration. The visitor center is nice with lots of information and very helpful Park Rangers. We enjoyed the campsite we had. The Badlands of Montana are different from the Badlands in South Dakota. The ecology of the different landscapes across this great land offer the searching, inquiring mind much to feast upon.