On Saturday August 8, 2020, my friend Rhonda and I met in Morristown Tn, and headed to the Great Smokey Mountains National Park to do an in and back hike to Mt. Leconte Lodge via The Boulevard Trail. I had hiked this trail with my sis and nephew on a chill December day a few years ago, but the day had been cloudy, with a mix of sleet and rain. The views from this magnificent trail were hidden from my eyes and I have been wanting to hike it on clear day.
Rhonda and I lucked out and found an empty parking slot at the Newfound Gap overview. It is a very popular stop on the steep curving Mountain Road connecting Gatlinburg and Cherokee NC. It was sunny, with blue skies, fluffy white clouds and it was cool enough at elevation to make this hike a wee bit more pleasant to attempt than our last one. We used the flush toilets and started up the Appalachian Trail. We had 2.7 miles of the AT to conquer before we got to the trailhead for The Boulevard. Calculated trail miles had us at 16.1 potential miles for the day.
Leaving Newfound Gap the AT climbs. It is rocky and rooty and care must be used in places. Hiking poles or a walking stick are recommended. The AT at this juncture is a busy trail as there are a couple of popular destinations along its route, Charlieās Bunion and the Jump Off are both very popular hikes. We passed folks coming back down the trail, and we were passed by hikers heading up the trail. Knowing we had many miles to go, we set and maintained a steady pace of around 2mph. The climb was challenging and it is during these first strenuous stretches that the body questions what you are doing and why. Once you convince your body that yeah, this is what we are doing today, it gets easier. The number of folks we saw on this part of our hike rivaled the numbers we have encountered on most every other hike we have done all added together. The AT has an allure for me other trails lack. I enjoy every step I take on the iconic footpath. I snapped pics of the white blaze. The 2.7 miles passed quickly and we left the AT for the 5.4 mile adventure on The Boulevard.
We immediately began a fairly steep descent. My thought as we descended drifted towards the return. It promised to be a heck of a climb on tired legs and it cashed in on this promise hours later. A couple of backcountry campers passed us, they were overnighting at the Leconte Shelter. The day was beautiful, the air cool, and humidity tolerable. We crossed a creek and continued our descent. Then we Ridge walked. The trail became soft underfoot along the Ridge and the trees hindered visibility except for small breaks. The sun shone highlighting the mountain landscape off one side of the ridge. Clouds roiled and flowed hiding the view off the other side of the ridge. Looking down on clouds, walking on top of the world, where else can you do this? We traversed the rolling ridges and then began the climb towards the Lodge.
I caught up with Rhonda as she sat on a rock shelf. Taking a break, enjoying the breeze, we marveled as the clouds rolled towards us and climbed the mountain side behind us. The Smokey Mountains were showing off for us earning the famous nickname. Nature is magical. We climbed, the world rolling away from us all around, the scene so awe inspiring articulation becomes a challenge. I can close my eyes and see and feel the peace in the eternal hand that created the vista that was unfolding around me. Like The landscape hidden beneath and within the rolling clouds that conceal and reveal, life is never only what we are shown or told. Itās depths are open to those willing to climb, to descend, to search out and embrace. Never be satisfied by the cloud cover.
The climb to the Lodge was intense, the trail rocky and in some places a bit tricky to navigate. We saw a doe and baby standing without fear watching as we passed. We heard squirrels chitter and fuss in the trees around us. At the Lodge, I took a great photo of one of the little guys on the fence. It took us 5 hours to get to the Lodge. We snacked got water and headed back.
The return trip was a focused hike. We stopped a couple of times for water and a snack. We made it back to the Jeep in 5 hours making for a 10 hour day on the trail. Official mileage was 16.1 however, my ever present Fitbit clicked me right at 20 miles. Today I feel like I did 20 miles.
The ever present reminders that the world we knew has spun off its axis, boggle my mind. I wonder where we are going and what is to become of us when we get there. Hiking the trails in the Smokies always soothes me. On the trail, it is me, my body, the challenge of the terrain, the timelessness of creation and the gentle firm assertion that in the great scheme of things I am very small. All things pass, the world is in motion. My ride had a beginning and it will have an end. What is it I want to fill the between with?
Until next hike!


























