The Covid-19 precautions in place had people lined up at the Sugarlands Visitor Center where I stopped for a bathroom break on my way to choice #1, the lower section of Sugarland Mountain Trail to Huskey Gap. Unfortunately for me the trail head shares parking with the ever popular Laurel Falls trailhead. The cars were lined up and down both sides of the road coming and going. I passed and went to Elkmont to perhaps hike the length of the Little River Trail, again the parking lots were full to overflowing, I headed back towards Roaring Fork Motor Trail to hit the Grapeyard Ridge Trail, and when I got into that traffic jam, I decided not to even try the Nature Trail and veered off at the Y heading back to town.
Looking at my map, I decided a less popular destination was my best bet. I headed up Newfound Gap and made the turn onto Clingman’s Dome Road. About 2/3’s of the way up towards to Dome Parking lot there is a double pull over for Fork Ridge Trail. Across from Fork Ridge Trail is a very short access trail to the Appalachian Trail and that is where I began my hike.
The AT runs over 76 miles through the Smokies. I have hiked the 7.6 mile section from Newfound Gap to Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the AT. I only had 0.2 miles of the iconic trail to hike before coming to my goal for the day, a 4.8 mile section of the same Sugarland Mountain Trail I did not find parking for at the lower elevations when I started this day.
I smiled when I saw my first white blaze and noted that the Mount Collins Shelter was a short ways down Sugarland Mountain Trail. I left the crowds, the congestion, and the lines behind. It was just me and the verdant green of the forest. The depth and vibrancy of the shades of green were jewel like and breathtaking. It was cool, in the mid 60’s at 6000’ elevation. The world was damp and chill and blissfully peaceful. I met a couple of ladies and a child coming away from the shelter where they had overnighted. They were the only folks I encountered until I stopped at the shelter on my way back to the Jeep. The trail changed character from the well defined layout of the AT. It became rocky and a wee bit slippery as it descended. There were stretches where the trail ran pretty even making for easy walking but on the way to the trail intersection I knew I was descending at least 1500 to 1700’, which I also knew I would be ascending on the way back.
Around 3.5 miles in I came to the burned zone. I walked a Ridgeline like tripping along the spine of the world. The land fell steeply away on either side and views of the Mountains seemed to stretch into forever whichever direction I looked. The skeletons of trees that were were surrounded by grasses, shrubs and small trees reclaiming the scorched earth, reminding me that life continues. From tragedy, something new will spring up. It might be briars and brambles, or new trees and grasses. I saw both. The footing was a bit treacherous in places, the grass hiding it’s topography. In places it crumbled away underfoot and great care had to be taken navigating it. I crossed a few dead falls, but nothing completely blocked my forward progress. I could see Newfound Gap Road and miniature cars driving to and fro. I looked down on the iconic chimney tops and was delighted by the perspective. I have climbed that trail, a nice vertical challenge and here I was looking down at the twin rocky peaks. I made it to the trail intersection and took a nice much needed break. After all what goes down must in this case go back up.
Retracing my steps, I marveled at the resilience of nature. I stopped and surveyed the mass of humanity below going about their travels. Would they could see what I was seeing. The beauty of this great Park is on display at its popular attractions, but the opportunity to truly take in and appreciate the magestic beauty is tempered by the presence of so many in search of the same. Here alone, on this Ridgeline I felt as if the world stretched away full of beauty and opportunity. It wasn’t the same world I left when I began the day.
I stolidly climbed, taking a break about half way back up. I stopped again at the Shelter and spoke to two AT hikers staying there overnight. The hike took me about 7 hours. I felt tired, and refreshed. I am ready for another week in the world we have made. I am looking forward already to my next sojourn into the world God has made.
MrsSmithsLifeUnexpected 