I got up Sunday morning and was at the Trailhead by 7:41 am. There were only a few cars at this very popular trailhead. I disembarked along with a couple other carloads of individuals. The morning was overcast and cool, good hiking weather. I spoke to some of my fellow hikers as I set off. The trail has been reconditioned recently. I appreciated the upgrades as I began what was to be a good climb. Elevation gain from the parking area to Mt. Leconte is over 3800 ft in 6.6 miles. The Falls are a popular destination for dayhikers and I was passed by couples heading for the Falls, only one group of hikers were heading all the way to Mt. Leconte Lodge.
The trail follows alongside the creek for a ways. The sound of the water loud as it rushes along its bed. I stopped once or twice just to listen and enjoy one of nature’s most soothing sounds. I took lots of pictures glad to be on trail again after a long absence. I felt strong as I climbed. The new steps both built in and created from rocks were sweet making the path forward easier. The trail wound away from the creek, and the climb grew more intense. I passed folks returning from the Falls.
The Falls are 2.8 miles up the trail. When I arrived at the Falls I saw the group of gentlemen who were going on up to Leconte disappearing up the trail past the Falls. I took a moment and soaked in the sight of the Falls. I had them to myself. Then I took a deep breath of sweet mountain air and began the climb to Mt. Leconte Lodge.
The evidence of the Chimney Tops Fire that ravaged Gatlinburg began to show along the trail. There were burned tree trunks and open vistas. Grass and shrubs and young trees demonstrated the regeneration of the land. The threat of rain became a light shower I put on my hat and soldiered on. The clouds enshrouded the forest as I gained elevation. Walking through the misty clouds that give the Smokies their name I tried to capture what I was experiencing but pictures can never quite do that.
I caught my fellow hikers and passed them as they snacked. I was passed again as I checked out a side trail to rocky overlook. As I neared Leconte I focused on my goal. To get to the Lodge and take a short break then head down Bull Head Trail for a full day of hiking. 14.2 total trail miles.
The Lodge was a welcome sight, I climbed out of the hazy clouds and the sun shown brightly on the Lodge. I took pictures then headed back down. I passed a doe on the side of the trail. She stood magnificently unconcerned about my approach until I finally got too close then she disappeared into the forest. Bull Head split from Rainbow about 1/2 mile down from Leconte and I left Rainbow Trail to tackle Bull Head.
It drizzled sgain as I entered the fog of the clouds. And down I went. I took pictures of flowers and fungi and butterflies. I began to feel the miles as I descended. It has been a while since I have gone this far. I passed one couple coming up Bull Head then had the trail to myself for the rest of the day. I walked out of the forest into the devastated landscape recovering from the great fire. The grass was knee high. As I walked a Bobcat rose in the grass ahead of me and slinked off. It happened so quickly I was not able to get a picture. But I saw the big cat a really cool wildlife encounter.
As I made my way down the grassy trail the sun beat down and sweat rolled down my back. I tasted a few wild blackberries and marveled at the landscape, the blackened tree trunks up and down the mountain sides ethereally beautiful and haunting; the grasses and wildflowers reaching for the sun. I got hot and my feet tired. I passed the pulpit the stack of rocks put there by the CCC who laid out the trails in the early days of the Park. I found out from my Dad that my grandfather actually ran a CCC crew for a few years. Both sides of my family has history tied to this beautiful park.
The last leg of this hike was a challenge as I struggled with fatigue and aches and pains cropping up in my joints. Going down is harder on me than climbing. I got a nice view of the Park Vista from Bull Head.
This is a challenging hike with a little bit of everything to offer. Waterfalls, Mt Leconte Lodge, the Pulpit. Fantastic views due to the fire ravaged landscape. I came off trail at 6:30. I was glad I did not have to drive home!
MrsSmithsLifeUnexpected 