Middle Prong, Panther Creek, Lynn Camp Prong loop hike in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

On May 12, my beautiful daughter in law and I headed towards Tremont in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park for a 14.9 mile loop hike. Danielle mapped out the loop and laid out the trip plan. I was most agreeable with whatever she chose. Turns out this was a challenging little loop.

We got to the parking area at 10:30ish. The parking area was crowded and frankly, the way the people parked limited options for the folks coming in later as we did. There were several cars parked in such a way as to compromise parking in general. Cars were parked just far enough apart that another car could not fit between effectively taking up 3 potential spaces with 2 vehicles. I circled the area then pulled the Jeep in behind another 4×4 in a less than optimum position, but it worked. We unloaded and gathered back packs and supplies.

It was a lovely day, it had gone straight from the mild temperatures of spring into summer, hello heat and humidity! I changed my cap for a headband to keep my unruly locks out of my face. I liked the headband. It is a keeper.

Middle Prong Trail is a well graded gentle incline along the river. One walks accompanied by the sound of flowing water. It is a fairly popular trail and we passed family groups of all ages and sizes enjoying nature in their shorts and flip flops. I felt all business like with the Lowa boots, the backpack and my beloved iron wood walking stick.

There are Cascades along the river offering wonderful photo ops. We made good time going up the 2.3 miles to the trail intersection with Panther Creek.

We took the left turn off Middle Prong and considered the first of at least 8 water crossings detailed for Panther Creek. The warnings about the difficulty of the initial crossing in the Little Brown Book had Danielle and eyeing the river warily. We scanned our options then pulled out the water shoes and changed from our boots. Then we waded gingerly across the horse ford. The current was swift but not so fast to compromise footing if careful. I plotted a course that took me on the upside of several larger rocks. I used my walking stick as a third point of contact as I made my way. The rocks braced my legs so if I slipped on the slick rocks underfoot I wouldn’t go far. The water was over knee high in places as I picked my way carefully along. Cold and invigorating, the water crossing set us on our way up Panther Creek. Panther Creek climbed towards Jakes Gap. We left our water shoes on for the multiple crossings ahead. It was cool close to the water, but we heated up as we climbed the 1500 ft elevation gain in 2.3 miles.

Sitting on a fallen log for one of our many rest stops we watched a young couple come down the trail. They looked like they had just finished a photo shoot for backpackers magazine, clean and well groomed with all the equipment and accoutrements for a weekend stay in the backcountry. We spoke to find out that they had just spent 2 nights at 2 different back country sites. I glanced over at my red faced sweaty disheveled daughter in law and down at my own battered gear and then back at the clear eyed smiling couple and felt awestruck. We had only been in the woods for two hours and they had been in for at least two days…😮. How?

We shrugged our backpacks back on and continued to climb, the higher we got the thinner the tree cover became. As we left the creek behind we climbed in direct sunlight for stretches of trail. Danielle had dipped her bandana and wetted her hair and face but she was starting to wear out quickly. We stopped again for a rest and listened as another group of hikers headed our way from above. The three gentlemen were having a grand time and they stopped to chat. They asked where we were headed and we said up and they looked at us with sympathy and murmured their condolences before they went on their merry way. That seemed to suck the remaining gumption right out of Danielle’s flagging energy well. She glumly gathered up and resumed the hot trudge towards the trail’s end at Jake’s Gap. We walked a little ways and she finally said she thought she had had enough. She was ready to cash it in and just go back the way we had come. She looked overheated and done in. I gave her one of my frozen gatorades and she drank on it. Knowing we had to be close to the end of the trail I told her to just take it easy and I would round the next little Ridge and see how close we were.

We were practically there. I met two other hikers at the intersection. They had done the loop going in the opposite direction. I chatted and as we talked Danielle trudged up. The Gatorade had given her a boost. The ladies told us that the little section of Mirey Ridge ahead of us was not bad at all a little more up and then it was all down hill.

Dogged and determined Danielle got a second wind seeing the signs at the intersection and decided down hill on Lynn Camp or down on Panther Creek we would finish the loop rather than backtrack. With the encouragement of fellow hikers ringing in our ears we started up Mirey Ridge towards Lynn Camp Prong Trail. 700 more ft of elevation gain and much complaining and muttered imprecations later we topped out then began our descent. I played where is Danielle as she bolted off down the mountain we had so laboriously climbed.

Mirey Ridge is 5 miles long, we did 2.5 miles to the intersection with Lynn Camp Prong. Danielle finished my Gatorade and proclaimed Panther Creek Trail as one and done. She came, she saw, she climbed, she survived…and Panther Creek had seen the last of her. We turned right onto Lynn Camp Prong Trail.

It was like the starter’s gun had rung, Danielle disappeared around the bend ahead of me as I continued to follow. Going down hill takes a toll on my knees and my feet. My feet were starting to hurt and I considered putting my boots back on but I would have had to stop and sit down and then get back up. That doesn’t sound like much but trust me when I say it was enough that I chose to walk. We planned a stop at campsite 28. I assured my protesting feet I would change shoes then.

There are points on every long hike where one hits a zone that can best be described as will power. Will power keeps your body moving towards the goal, as your mind zones out. No sense in concentrating on discomfort or even pain. These are inevitable when pushing your body beyond its comfort zone. The challenge is powering through and beyond the discomfort to reach the goal. Once you are so far in the only way out is to keep going. The easy way is not to go at all.

We stopped at the campsite and changed shoes. This made a world of difference to my aching feet. Wish I hadn’t been such a pansy and changed earlier. The last mile 1/2 of Lynn Camp Prong was nicely graded and easy walking.

We hit Middle Prong to finish out our loop hike. We followed a side trail to some really nice falls then walked the 4.1 miles towards the waiting Jeep. Seemed like a long way left to go. We went down some nice switch backs then leveled out on the wide graded gentle decline that lead us towards the trail head. Exhausted, but feeling good for accomplishing such a physically challenging day we headed out of the mountains towards home!